Tried it on a couple of things, leaky gas tank/hole in oil pan, and it seemed to work for awhile, then it was back to the drawing board. I always solved it, but not until after many disappointments.
I noticed that it doesn’t do well when there is a petroleum film, or surface rust, even at the fringes of the would be seal. For a punch in hole that I created in my gas tank, I actually just over-patched it with sheet metal, then sealed that. On the oil pan, I kind of did the same, covering all of the crunch, with fiberglass cloth/resin.
@CroutonOllie Yeah, first try, I used carb cleaner and JB Kwikweld for the 6 minute set, and…didn’t work. Second try I used carb cleaner then varnish thinner then 120 grit sandpaper and JB Weld original. Seems to have worked on one place (transmission housing/plug), and did it on another (front differential case/plug (Subaru)) this afternoon. We’ll see in the morning… If it worked, I’m content with never changing the fluids again. Headed for 200K mi., and I’m not looking back.
@FritzCat Sounds like it should be a win, you certainly prepared it, but instead of carb cleaner (petro based) I’d try replacement Carbon Tetrachloride. They quit selling the real thing years ago, but the replacement works well, as I’ve used it on guns and it works like the original. Cuts through that film.
Lots of miles, my salute, to keep it going that long! Had an old Dodge, with a hemi (3") rear end, but only a 383 under the hood, that lasted me around 350; sad to see it go. Looked like shit, but got scratch in every gear.
@CroutonOllie They got rid of Carbon Tet about the time I was working for Atari, making Pong games in the 70s. A young lad, pre-education. However, I still wonder about the big vat of molten lead in the middle of the factory floor that was the wave solder machine. The Dodge 383 was a beast, but I’ve never been a Mopar kinda guy, had a '67 Camaro back before they were expensive. Similarly, after tuning (often) I’d lay some rubber in all 4 gears, just to test it out. Here in the North Country, cars don’t last that long. And…I’ll take a cautious win…prior to a long test-drive.
Used to live up there, about the time you worked for Atari; tons of snow.
Was at Hancock Field, at 21st Norad Region Control Center. Ran Air Surveillance on a crew, before going to Standardization/Evaluation. Liked it up there.
Lived in West Monroe, Liverpool, and N. Syracuse; oldest son born there!
Well the Heat and Fires have made it a challenge for sure but my mom always said sometimes you get to make good lemonade out of lemons
Working on my car.
Classic two steps forward, one step back.
I’ll see if the JB Weld holds this morning…
@FritzCat Good luck, hopefully it works out fine.
Tried it on a couple of things, leaky gas tank/hole in oil pan, and it seemed to work for awhile, then it was back to the drawing board. I always solved it, but not until after many disappointments.
I noticed that it doesn’t do well when there is a petroleum film, or surface rust, even at the fringes of the would be seal. For a punch in hole that I created in my gas tank, I actually just over-patched it with sheet metal, then sealed that. On the oil pan, I kind of did the same, covering all of the crunch, with fiberglass cloth/resin.
@CroutonOllie Yeah, first try, I used carb cleaner and JB Kwikweld for the 6 minute set, and…didn’t work. Second try I used carb cleaner then varnish thinner then 120 grit sandpaper and JB Weld original. Seems to have worked on one place (transmission housing/plug), and did it on another (front differential case/plug (Subaru)) this afternoon. We’ll see in the morning… If it worked, I’m content with never changing the fluids again. Headed for 200K mi., and I’m not looking back.
@FritzCat Sounds like it should be a win, you certainly prepared it, but instead of carb cleaner (petro based) I’d try replacement Carbon Tetrachloride. They quit selling the real thing years ago, but the replacement works well, as I’ve used it on guns and it works like the original. Cuts through that film.
Lots of miles, my salute, to keep it going that long! Had an old Dodge, with a hemi (3") rear end, but only a 383 under the hood, that lasted me around 350; sad to see it go. Looked like shit, but got scratch in every gear.
@CroutonOllie They got rid of Carbon Tet about the time I was working for Atari, making Pong games in the 70s. A young lad, pre-education. However, I still wonder about the big vat of molten lead in the middle of the factory floor that was the wave solder machine. The Dodge 383 was a beast, but I’ve never been a Mopar kinda guy, had a '67 Camaro back before they were expensive. Similarly, after tuning (often) I’d lay some rubber in all 4 gears, just to test it out. Here in the North Country, cars don’t last that long. And…I’ll take a cautious win…prior to a long test-drive.
@CroutonOllie Just drove 200 miles into PA, not a drop leaked. Hope to make it home too.
Glad it worked, hope it does through the winter.
Used to live up there, about the time you worked for Atari; tons of snow.
Was at Hancock Field, at 21st Norad Region Control Center. Ran Air Surveillance on a crew, before going to Standardization/Evaluation. Liked it up there.
Lived in West Monroe, Liverpool, and N. Syracuse; oldest son born there!